The Riva, Split's seafront promenade, runs the length of the old town and is one of Europe's finest. Surveyed from a stool on the balcony of the ST Riva café, the views across the harbour to the islands beyond are magnificent. No wonder the Roman Emperor Diocletian chose this spot in Croatia to build his lavish retirement palace in AD295. Today, despite centuries of additions, the palace remains the heartbeat of Split's old town; a unique mix of architecture in a maze of narrow streets.
My first taste of Diocletian's world contrasts sharply with the shiny modern esplanade. I am in the dark and dank basements of the former palace, accessed via the Bronze Gate that leads off the Riva. I explore the huge, labyrinthine halls once used to make wine and press olives.
Exiting the basement up a steep staircase at the far end, I blink as I find myself in the sunlit colonnaded Peristyle, formerly the palace's central courtyard. All the main sights of the old town are a short walk from this beautiful square.
Passing through the 13th-century carved oak doors of the St Domnius Cathedral, I wonder what Diocletian, the notorious persecutor of Christians, would have made of this place of worship, given that it was originally his mausoleum. Inside, the highlight is the wonderful altar of St Anastasius.
The bloodthirsty emperor believed himself to be Jupiter reincarnated, and it's worth squeezing down one of the world's narrowest alleys (aptly named "Let Me Pass Street") to visit the temple he built honouring the god.
After a coffee in the white-marble-paved Narochi Trg (People's Square), I head for the Golden Gate, once the most important entrance to the city. On my way I pass the impressive Gothic Papalic Palace and visit one of the world's smallest churches, the sixth-century St Martin's, built in a guard passage above the gate.
Just over 1,700 years ago it was through the Golden Gate that Diocletian allegedly entered his home for the first time. Today it is Ivan Mestrovic's imposing statue of 10th-century Croatian bishop Grgur Ninski outside that catches the eye.
In the evening, I catch a ballet company rehearsing for the summer festival in the handsome Trg Republike square and listen to locals singing age-old Adriatic melodies (klapa) on the Riva.
I finish the night by joining locals for a shot of rakija (grappa) at the friendly Rakijarnica bar in the lively former ghetto area on the west wall of the palace.
I head back to the hotel through the Golden Gate and rub the shiny big toe of Grgur, which apparently guarantees you will return to Split. I certainly hope it works, as this city has been a revelation – if it's good enough for Diocletian, it's good enough for me.
| DIDYOU KNOW? | Goran Ivanisevic was born in Split. He also played football for Hajduk Split in 2001 |
|---|
SPLIT ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE
Croatia Airlines (00385 1667 6555; www.croatiaairlines.com), easyJet(0905 821 0905; www.easyjet.com) and Wizz Air (0906 956 0002;www.wizzair.com) fly to Split. The Pleso prijevoz shuttle bus meets every scheduled flight (£5 to the palace). Alternatively, a taxi to the city centre will cost around £40.
PACKAGES
Adriatic specialists Completely Croatia (0800 970 9149;www.completelycroatia.co.uk) offer packages to Split; three nights at the Peristil Hotel, for example, costs from £429 per person in low season, including flights from London and private transfers.
THE INSIDE TRACK
THE BEST HOTELS
Hotel Peristil ££
A stone’s throw from the Peristyle, this hotel has 12 tastefully decorated rooms, some featuring the original wall of the palace (00385 21 329070;www.hotelperistil.com; doubles from £105).
Hotel Vestibul Palace £££
This small hotel is situated up the steps from the Peristyle where Diocletian had his private living quarters. Only a few rooms, so book in plenty of time (239329; www.vestibulpalace.com; from £155).
Hotel Luxe £££
Fantastic new hotel with very comfortable, funky rooms a short walk from the palace (314445; www.hotelluxesplit.com; from £170).
THE BEST RESTAURANTS
Pizzeria Galija £
One of the best pizzerias in the old town, with a large outdoor terrace (Toncieva 12; 347932).
Sperun ££
Tucked away in the quiet Veli Varos area, this small place specialises in fish and seafood (Sperun 3; 346999).
Trattoria Bajamonte ££
Superb, simple and cosy place near the Iron Gate. Serves mainly fish and excellent pastas and risottos (Bajamonte Ul).