Most visitors to Dalmatia head straight for the islands, but the Makarska Rivijera on the mainland coast, between Split and Dubrovnik, is home to some of the country’s loveliest stretches of beach. Running from Brela in the north to Gradac in the south, the riviera is 38 miles long and centres on Makarska.
Makarska itself is built around a deep sheltered bay, and backed by the dramatic rocky heights of Mount Biokovo (5,770ft), which acts as a buffer from the harsher inland climate. Biokovo’s sea-facing slopes are criss-crossed by well-marked trails, so besides swimming in the deep turquoise Adriatic, it’s possible to get in some hiking or mountain biking too.
Back in the 10th century, the Byzantine Emperor Constantine VII referred to this region as Pagania. The long narrow coastal strip, between the mouth of the River Cetina and the mouth of River Neretva, Pagania was named after its inhabitants, the Pagani. A rebellious people who lived from piracy, raiding passing galleys, the Pagani hadn’t accepted Christianity until the 9th century, far later than the other Slavs.
Nowadays things are somewhat more peaceful, with the locals making a living from fishing, olive oil and wine making, and tourism, but there’s still a rather pleasing, wild untouched feeling to the place
. The settlements here remain small and villagey, with the exception of Makarska, with its lovely main square overlooked by the Baroque Church of St Mark and several elegant palazzi built by wealthy local merchants, recording 18th-century prosperity and refinement under Venice.
. The settlements here remain small and villagey, with the exception of Makarska, with its lovely main square overlooked by the Baroque Church of St Mark and several elegant palazzi built by wealthy local merchants, recording 18th-century prosperity and refinement under Venice.
Today, through summer Makarska’s main square is filled with open-air restaurants and cafés, while behind the church, in the shade, the daily open-air market sells fresh seasonal fruit and vegetables. Along the harbour, overlooked by a string of cafés and pizzeria, wooden excursion boats offer one-day trips to Jelsa on Hvar and Zlatni Rat beach in Bol on Brac.
But the main draw here is the beaches, backed by fragrant pinewoods overlooking the glistening turquoise sea. Makarska’s town beach is a long curving stretch of pebble, behind which runs a shady palm-lined promenade with several big hotels interspersed by cafés, restaurants and ice cream parlours. There are peddle-boats, banana rides and jet skis for hire, so it’s great for families but not particularly restful.
However, from here you can walk or cycle northwest along the coast all the way to Brela (nine miles). On the way, you pass Buba beach bar, in a bay with straw umbrellas and wooden sunbeds – its quiet in the mornings, but gets livelier during the day with DJ music in the afternoons, sunset cocktails, and occasional after-dark concerts and electronic dance music at night. Then there’s a quiet stretch, made up of rocks and small pebble coves, some just big enough for two, backed by dense pinewoods. There are no facilities here and no natural shade, so bring your own umbrella and a beach mat if you don’t like stony surfaces. It’s also nudist-friendly – nothing in unusual in Croatia, which has a history of naked bathing dating back to the early 1900s. Northwest from here, you come to the small resort of Baska Voda, where Nikolina white pebble beach has a Blue Flag for environmental standards, with sun beds for hire, showers, and life guards on duty through summer. A couple of miles farther on, blissful Punta Rata on the edge of Brela is many people’s favourite beach – its ideal for families as the seabed slopes gently into shallow sea, and its fully equipped with sun beds and umbrellas.
| Did you know? |
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| The Dalmatian diet consists of fresh seasonal, seasonal vegetables, olive oil and wine – with very little meat. |
In the opposite direction from Makarska, southeast of the harbour, a 1.5-mile footpath leads through pinewoods, with occasional agaves and cacti clinging to the rocky seaward slopes, to arrive at Nugal, another clothing-optional beach, set in pebble cove backed by high sided cliffs. Once again there are no facilities, so it’s a real back-to-nature escape and the sea is refreshingly chilly due to underground fresh water springs, which rise here. After Nugal comes Tucepi, a pleasant small-scale resort with a long pebble beach, a scuba-diving club and a 50-berth marina.
Away from the coast, on the lower slopes of Mount Biokovo, just outside to hamlet of Kotisina (two miles), the tiny Kotisina botanical garden displays indigenous rock plants, each marked with its Latin name. Here you are at the edge of Biokovo Nature Park. The karst landscape becomes increasingly barren as you ascend, with scanty pastures (look out for chamois goats and mouflon sheep) turning to a barren moonscape of limestone rocks. The highest peak, Sveti Jure, affords fantastic views westwards across the sea to Italy, and inland to the mountains of Bosnia in the east.
| Statue of friar Miosic, Makarska Croatia |
Getting there
British Airways (0844 493 0787; britishairways.com) flies to Zagreb from London Heathrow and to Dubrovnik from London Gatwick; Croatia Airlines (0844 371 0310; croatiaairlines.com) flies to Zagreb from London Heathrow, with the option of connecting internal flights to Split; easyJet (0843 104 5000; easyjet.com) flies to Split from Bristol, Gatwick and London Stansted.
Makarska is a 1 hr 30 min drive from Split airport. There are regular long-distance buses along the coast from Split to Makarska, and local buses between the villages of the Makarska Rivijera.
Where to stay
Sv Petar Lighthouse ££
A 15-minute walk from Makarska’s harbour, this lighthouse dates from 1884. It’s been refurbished to create one basic but comfortable apartment with two double rooms, a kitchen, living room, and a terrace overlooking the sea (00385 21 390609; lighthouses-croatia.com; one-week rental from £588).
A 15-minute walk from Makarska’s harbour, this lighthouse dates from 1884. It’s been refurbished to create one basic but comfortable apartment with two double rooms, a kitchen, living room, and a terrace overlooking the sea (00385 21 390609; lighthouses-croatia.com; one-week rental from £588).
Hotel Osejava ££
Overlooking the harbour, at the south end of Makarska’s palm-lined seafront promenade, the Osejava has 40 rooms and five suites, all with cool minimalist design, slick bathrooms (21 604300; osejava.com; doubles from £66).
Overlooking the harbour, at the south end of Makarska’s palm-lined seafront promenade, the Osejava has 40 rooms and five suites, all with cool minimalist design, slick bathrooms (21 604300; osejava.com; doubles from £66).
Hotel Croatia ££
Recently renovated traditional Dalmatian stone building; 18 rooms with wooden floors, and several multi-bed options for families. (21 695900;orvas-hotels.com doubles from £44)
Recently renovated traditional Dalmatian stone building; 18 rooms with wooden floors, and several multi-bed options for families. (21 695900;orvas-hotels.com doubles from £44)
Villa Iris £££
19th century stone cottage on the hillside above Brela, with fantastic sea views. It has four double rooms, three bathrooms, a fully equipped kitchen and a garden with a pool and barbecue (21 735393; orvas-hotels.com one-week rental from £1,877.
19th century stone cottage on the hillside above Brela, with fantastic sea views. It has four double rooms, three bathrooms, a fully equipped kitchen and a garden with a pool and barbecue (21 735393; orvas-hotels.com one-week rental from £1,877.
Where to eat
Konoba Kalalarga £
Traditional konoba (tavern) which is informal and reasonably priced, and popular with locals (Kalalarga 40, 00385 98 9902908; daily 10am-midnight.)
Traditional konoba (tavern) which is informal and reasonably priced, and popular with locals (Kalalarga 40, 00385 98 9902908; daily 10am-midnight.)
Konoba Stari Mlin ££
Stari Mlin (Old Mill) occupies an 18th-century Baroque building, with a lovely vine-covered terrace at the back (Prvosvibanjska 43, 00385 21 611503; closed Sunday.)
Stari Mlin (Old Mill) occupies an 18th-century Baroque building, with a lovely vine-covered terrace at the back (Prvosvibanjska 43, 00385 21 611503; closed Sunday.)
Jeny £££
Gourmet restaurant with amazing views down onto the sea. The food is exquisite; opt for the five-course degustation menu (Gornji Tucepi 49; 00385 21 623704; restaurant-jeny.hr May-Sep; daily 6pm-midnight).
Gourmet restaurant with amazing views down onto the sea. The food is exquisite; opt for the five-course degustation menu (Gornji Tucepi 49; 00385 21 623704; restaurant-jeny.hr May-Sep; daily 6pm-midnight).
The inside track
If you want to reach the top of Mount Biokovo without walking all the way, Biokovo Active Holidays (biokovo.net) organises hiking trips, with the first stretch by minibus. They also arrange mountain biking on Biokovo and the island of Brač.
To escape the crowds but still enjoy the coast, take a sea kayaking trip with Adventure Dalmatia (adventuredalmatia.com), departing from Brela.